Trip to Rome. Eternal Rome.

Stretches of green midst clinically linear architecture settlements. The air-view above few feet in the sky offered spectacular view of Rome. Nature and architecture at its resonating best, Rome was the first European city we visited, and it surely did build high expectations for others to follow. For its architecture and more importantly the care with which it has been preserved, Rome is a benchmark for tourist cities in the world. 

A cradle for civilization with an architecture that is worth sustaining entire city's economy tourism on its own, some say Rome is Eternal because of its culture and architecture. Undoubtedly, it survived anciently, it excels today, and for sure shows path to other cities of future. Our trip in mid-January 2013 was primarily because we chose Italy for the weather it offered in that time of the year and its delicious food, and vegetarian options compared to its northern European siblings.

Day 1 - Post Noon

International airport at Rome is efficient and modern. Checking out is easy and hassle free. The drizzle and nip in the air welcomed us outside the airport. The local metro/train station is just on the opposite side of the airport and there is a very good public transportation system overall in Rome. The train to Rome city costed around 13 Euros pp . However, priced almost the same, the shared mini bus (also outside the airport) was more fun and we went ahead with our front seats. It wasn't sunny, yet the outskirts of Rome set the tone for our two days odd trip to Rome. Windmills and carefully mowed gardens accentuated the beautiful landscape. The bus dropped us just outside the Roma Termini, the main train station for the city. Hotel Milan, where we stayed was quite near to termini, and it simply is a blessing to stay close to the transport hubs. It gels well, the way we wanted to explore the city saving precious time and fatigue.

Just outside Rome Airport

A suggestion here: If travelling for less than 3 days in any city, stay as close to station, as possible. More so applicable for the Italian cities.You'd save a LOT of time.Trust me.

After laying down for a while, we felt rejuvenated enough to grab some slices of pizza around the neighbourhood restaurant. It was fresh, crisp and appropriately spiced. Neat and effective. Similar to food throughout our stay in Italy. As  dusk was approaching us with some vigor with clouds playing peek-a-boo with the sunshine, we had to have our plans in order, rather quickly. The reception in the hotel had functional travel maps which were useful for us to begin our journey. From Termini we took a red line metro to Barberini and walked our way post that to Fontana-De-Trivi. It was dark by the time we reached at fountain. It was amazing to see several people enjoying  and refreshing their senses around the place, both locals and tourists alike. Shops selling branded products were close by.

Fontana De Trivi: Refreshing and Vibrant

Relaxed, we next headed towards Palazzo Montecitorio and then to Piazza Navone, exploring the amazing city through its streets. The part of the city is quite up-market and products are expensive. (Btw: The squares in Italian cities are referred as Piazza and street names begin with Via.) Some steep steps above and  the view holds you to a marvelous architecture. It was around eight, and the shops as if suddenly closed with only exceptions being the bars and the coffee shops.

We walked our way through to Via del Corso (it was indeed expensive) to reach back Barberini and subsequently to Termini. We had not taken any pass for public transport for this day. Termini has some really good shops in its complex, which offered handsome discounts too, and more importantly were open. We had our dinner after shopping a bit and then headed few steps to reach our hotel around 10. The amazing city held its charm so much so that we decided to hit the Roman streets. Rome is a pretty safe city. A cup of cappuccino and some magical and authentic pizza slices down the throat gives you that amazing feeling.

Conversation at Reception

Once back, the receptionist at the hotel and I picked up the conversation, primarily as I sought some information for our travel next day. While shopping through the windows that evening, I just wondered if everyone could afford the super expensive Armanis and others. It was heartening :) to know that not many locals shopped in the city and actually went to company outlets once a month or so. One could feel the general restlessness about the extant recession and the death of the Italian Lira. 'Euro has ruined our life', he shared wryly also emphasizing that taking credit from institutions and repaying was getting difficult day by day. The talk with the men on street is worth a 100 books, and this bit of conversation re-affirmed that. We retired after a fabulous day. Chao.

Day 2

Few meters away from our Hotel was 'Piazza della Repubblica'. We took off for our early morning walk and it was a wonderful feeling to make the ideal start to the day. The morning freshness could still be felt  around, while birds flogged their way to create peace through their noise. The place was superb. The feeling even better!

We then paid visit to a local market, that sold dry fruits, winter-wear (jackets, mufflers etc.),vegetables and meat. Prices were fairly low, in fact you find the prices to be lowest in Rome. (It's downtown though!.). Complimenting our last day's exploration on feet, 'Hop-on, Hop-Off' bus was our choice for today. It's highly recommended that you take this mode to discover Rome at your leisurely pace. We took Green bus and should say we were fairly happy with its service (there are other services too). You can hold your breath with the Roma views and with a price tag of 13 Euros pp, it's simply worth it. The pamphlets of major bus services can be fund in the hotels while tickets can be bought in the bus or around the emanating station. The process is simple and there are multi lingual audio guides available on the bus. And yes, the deck seats are better any day! There are scheduled bus stops around the major attractions and one has to buy ticket only once for the day. The periodicity of the repeat in around half an hour. It is highly advisable to take a day tour followed by the night journey to view Rome(without alighting from the bus) in the last shuttle that runs around 7 pm from Termini.

Taking our first bus at 11am we had sufficient time to see the major attractions of the day. You can start earlier too. Colosseum, major art museums and also to Vatican. (The Vatican post would follow this.) In between, we grabbed our bites of pizza and several life(chill) saving cappuccino at one of the coffee shop  in the afternoon .  Our Indian snacks helped too. The night view that Hop-on and Hop-off offered us was astonishing! The monuments are lit meticulously and the do make your way for the night trip, something that is highly recommended.

We would love to go back to Rome several times. Rome still bequeaths with its glory and the more so, the way that glory has been preserved. We left for Naples around 10 in the morning through Tren Italia from Roma Termini, next day.

Blue skies making way for the Colosseum

Shop What
Rome is very expensive. Some Shopping ideas may include:

• Shopping at Segue 
• Kids wear 
• Winter Jackets

The suburban towns around Rome have company outlets that are far cheaper than main city.
Visit Italy during annual season sale that generally takes place in January.

Bottom Line

Best Time to travel is during the sale season.
Be equipped with appropriate winter wear, the chill can surprise you.
The public transport passes may not be needed if you are using Hop on and Hop off.
You'll find a lot of vegetarian options, especially with pizza and the chefs won't surprise you with their expression hearing 'vegetarian'.

Travel Facts

• Stayed : 2 days.
• Stayed at : Hotel Milan - Yes, recommended.
• Travelled with my better half and the journey could be easily divided in three phases. 
• Travelled in Egypt Air from Cairo in January 2013.

North Pole 2009: Catlin Team Gets Resupply and Back on the Move

Updates from the North this morning:

After remaining stationary for four days, waiting for the weather to clear, the Catlin Arctic Survey Team finally got their resupply yesterday, when a Twin Otter landed on the ice to deliver much needed food and other gear. Upon receiving the supplies, Pen, Ann, and Martin promptly got underway trying to make up for some of the time they lost while waiting for the plane. Conditions remain very cold, -40ºC and demanding, but they're happy to be on the move once again.

Christina Franco has updated her plans for the North Pole as well. You may recall that Christina had hoped to attempt to become the first woman to go solo to the North Pole, striking out form Canada a few weeks back. Unfortunately she was forced to abandon that quest when her stove suffered a double failure leaving her with no way to warm her tent or heat her food. She has quickly regrouped however, and will leave for Russia on April 2nd then on to Borneo on the 5th to begin a "last degree" trip to the Pole that will serve as a training for 2010, when she hopes to make another attempt at the solo journey. If everything comes together as expected, she'll be back out on the ice from April 10-21.

The Victorinox North Pole Team is reporting a lot of "new" sea ice as they make their way north, which they say is a lot less stable and melts more quickly, but is also free from snow, allowing them to ski much faster. As a result, they've been putting up good mileage the past few days covering as much as 6 nautical miles in a day. A few days back they also made a dispatch about how they navigate in the Arctic that is quite interesting. They talk about the lack of features and landmarks around them, and how they have to learn to trust their sense of direction and use the sun as a reference point. The wind can also be used, as long as you know the direction it is blowing, but it can be unreliable at times too. Finally, they talk about using a compass, but you have to figure out the difference between due North and Magnetic North. For instance, right now, the Magnetic North Pole is to the west of them, and it pulls the needle of the compass 77º off their actual course to the geographic North Pole. Interesting stuff, and another example of the challenges that these explorers have to overcome.

Finally, the Peary Centennial Expedition has enjoyed some flat and smooth conditions, paired with decent weather and temps as high as -20ºF. As a result, they've made good time and progress and have now crossed the 84th parallel. They have suffered a few minor equipment issues on their skis, but managed to repair them in the tent overnight, and should be good to go today.

Mekong farmlad - In VietNam travel

Go through the lavish field and sluggish towns of the Mekong Delta on this four-day biking enterprise that takes you profound into the farming heart of the nation. Known as Vietnam's "rice bowl", the rich fluvial soil of the delta helps plentiful plantations and fields creating rice, coconuts, sugar stick and all way of fascinating foods grown from the ground vegetables...

Appreciate an one of a kind biking outing through the Mekong farmland, going through country terraces to find the neighborhood life and society. At 8:00 AM, your driver and aide will reach you at the lodging and drive you in the help van to the Mekong Delta. Toward the evening take a two hour bicycle ride through the lovely wide open to the Cai Mon District, where you will keep with it at a nearby agriculturist's home. Cai Mon is a residential area made popular by its plentiful nursery enclosures and foods grown from the ground plantations. In the late evening, join the family and help to get ready supper, figuring out how to cook delectable, neighborhood cooking. At night appreciate a mouth-watering, welcome dinner with family.

Related post: Vietnam travel deals

Begin your day the nearby way, waking right on time to visit the clamoring morning business sector. Come back to the home for breakfast then set out on an alternate day biking along the wonderful fluvial farmland, passing through nearby towns, under verdant plantations and navigating emerald-green rice paddies. Stop along the best approach to visit the well disposed nearby individuals and flavor a delightful lunch of bona fide food. Land in Can Tho City in the late evening and register with your lodging. Delight in whatever remains of the day free at your recreation.

Climb early and take a vessel to visit the Mekong's greatest drifting business. Here ranchers from everywhere throughout the district meet up to sell their crisp produce. This is an impeccable chance to example a portion of the new tropical apples and oranges developed along the Mekong. After the watercraft ride, you will set out on a going visit through the wonderful farmland on a biking course voted Vietnam's best in 2006. Use the evening unwinding by the pool and relishing the peacefulness of the Mekong's field and watch the dusk over the slowing down.

Eat at the inn then appreciate the morning at your relaxation. Leave from Can Tho around twelve, halting for lunch in transit and landing in Saigon toward the evening. Visit closes.

Bijoyeta Das | The Last Aryans (Al Jazeera)

Photo © Bijoyeta Das-Courtesy Al Jazeera

"Now we charge $5 from tourists to pose for photos and more to wear traditional clothes and a lot more if you want to shoot videos"- Thinely Aryan, a Brogpa.

The Brogpas (also known as Drogpas) live in Ladakh, as well as in India-administered Kashmir. They claim to be the last of the Aryans. Out of the 5 Brogpa villages in India, two have are open to foreign tourism.  The villages of Dha and Biama are entirely populated by last remaining remnants of the Dards who are considered as last race of Aryans confined to Indus Valley. The Dards practice an ancient pre-Buddhist religion known as Bon-Cho, and have remained in total isolation for over 2000 years until 1947. 

Al Jazeera In Pictures features a gallery of photographs of Brogpas by Bijoyeta Das.

While no one knows for certain if the Brogpas' claim of belonging to an Aryan race have any merit, and whether their origins are true, the tourism industry is endeavoring to capitalize on these claims, and bring tourists to the area. These villages are about 170 km from Leh, so it is a hardy tourist that goes there...but it seems that it's picking up.

According to entries in Wikipedia: In the 19th century, the speakers of the Indo-Persian or Indo-European languages came to be called the "Aryan race", to differentiate them from what came to be called the "Semitic race". By the late 19th century, the notions of an "Aryan race" became closely linked to Nordicism, which meant Northern European racial superiority over all other peoples. 

Bijoyeta Das is a journalist and photographer. She has reported from Bangladesh, India, Nepal, the Philippines, Thailand, Turkey, South Korea and USA and holds a masters degree in Journalism from Northeastern University, USA and a photojournalism postgraduate diploma from Ateneo de Manila University, Philippines.

Trip to Spain. Spain and Me - We Together !

This is the conversation, I as BJ had one night with my magical travel companion (SS).

"To accomplish great things, we must not only act, but also dream, not only plan , but also believe."   - Anatole France

BJ : Dear SS! I have the Dream and the Belief to go to Spain.

SS : No worries, I have the Plan and the Act. With our magical companionship, we'll sew the beauty and   intrigue of Spain with the Sweet Memories and great fun !! All set BJ ?

BJ : Yippie !! Thanks a lot, SS for being here in India now. So how do we go about the lengthy process of   Booking Airline tickets, Hotels, Buses and renting a Car through various websites ?. The entire process       of working and re-working the budget every time is such a stress !

SS: Don't worry BJ, I'll manage All of them !

BJ: All !Are you sure ? ... Tickets, Hotels, Buses, Cars, everything?

SS: Yes BJ, All of them...

BJ: SS, I must say you are really powerful, holding so much in yourself. Awesome!

SS: Thanks BJ! So you want to go to Spain. Where do you want to Start from in Spain?

BJ: See, I want to cover Barcelona, Madrid and if possible, other cities and towns around them. Wait, I   know I will have to be more specific than that . And yes, I've got INR 1 lakh for this trip.

SS: No issues for further specifications. Not needed. Just enter Spain as destination and I'll take care of     the rest.

BJ: And Journey Dates ? I don't have them specifically on my mind too except that it has to be 2014!.

SS: My friend BJ, even that won't be a problem ! I'll get the best deals from the entire year !

BJ: SS, you know you are too good to be true. Can I Click (touch) you.

SS: Ok. Ok. That hurts, I Exist.

BJ:  Fine then.. Here we are.. No specific date, no specific City.

SS:  Rather... Assured Best Deals though, with complete flexibility! Isn't that Super BJ ?

BJ: Unbelievably Super !! I can choose the best fares from dates across the year and cheapest cities to land to ! That's  WOW ! Anyways SS let's move ahead. Lots of planning left.

SS: Yeah, Look I got a Return fare worth INR 38,218, Mumbai - Barcelona.

BJ:  Oh Great !! SS promise means delivery every time, all the time. Now that's awesome. Dates       from October 1-10, 2014 are perfectly suitable to me as well. Thanks for the awesome deal. Next let's       move to accommodation. Yippiee!! Now that's 'Skyscanner and I, on a trip around the world'.

SS:  Hey BJ, Hope you've made the best use of the research and information on my site under the           section 'Travel News and Features'. There is a lot of useful information and resources.

Skyscanner - The Benchmark travel reports

BJ:  No doubts! It's an excellent one stop place for all my Travel related insight.

SS: Great to know that you are following the info there. So what do your plan to during Spain visit?

BJ : SS, Look my visit spans for 9 days. I prefer to divide my time between Barcelona and Madrid. 

SS : So you mean to say, that you plan to base yourself in these cities and if time permits, go for day trips     around ?

BJ: That's right on the dart, SS. You are wise and really smart, otherwise. I'm planning to stay in             Barcelona for 6 days and another 3 days in Madrid.

SS: Well BJ, That's smart of you. I'd love to know more about your travel plans about the two cities in Spain.

BJ: SS here it goes:

Barcelona is a splendid city with a mix of ancient and modern characteristics. Madrid is unique and cosmopolitan at the same time. Madrid boasts of a lively artistic and cultural heritage with an envious night life. 

Barcelona has the best of both the worlds. It personifies every traveler's dream. Rich History, modern infrastructure, fabulous food, game for sports, lively outdoor markets and the heavenly serene beach. Barcelona is the modern ancient paradise. I'd love to walk across Las Remblas, as the array of the trees would hug me and allow me to meander and open-up in my own world. All my stress would fly with the swirling of the leaves. Then I'd like to enjoy the divine Spanish cuisine at La Boqueria for Escalivada or Mel-i-Mato. Then I'd like to happily relax along my camelot on the golden yellow sands of the Sant Sebastia beach and listen to the wheeze of the tales that the Mediterranean sea brings along. And who'd miss the Barcelona Stadia that stand with their grandeur from Olympics, 1992. SS, I'll just so wish to fold the map deep in my pocket and realize my inner happiness by getting lost in the old streets of Barcelona. Barri Goltic, Basilica La Seu are testimonies of the rich culture of Barcelona that complement the edifice of the modern art creations of Antono Gaudi of the likes of Casa Balto. Barcelona also figures amongst the most frequented cites in the world. In view of that, there is a lot to be learnt about different cultures, influences, thoughts etc. from my fellow travelers.That makes yet another reason to visit Barcelona.

Las Remblas

Sant Sebastia beach

La Boqueria

Nouveau Art - Modern art

Escalivada

Madrid on the other hand is a cosmopolitan city in a true scene, with a verve and a nerve that it's simply unparalleled. Several ethnicities merge as in a potshot of Madrid to frame the culture with a new definition. It's sporty, fisty, ethnic and modern. All at the same time. The arena of the Bull-Fighting can lend life to estrogens and rescale the very definition of adventure. The nights are even more exciting as the city boasts of a night-life that is best across the globe. Madrid's architecture is yet another reason to visit the city with Plaza Mayor, Palacio de Cebeles, Puerta del Sol, Royal Palace and the vertical gardens ornating the city's landscape. 

Apart from the enormous scope of spending time within the cities, there are a lot of options to go for Day tours from the city. At Barcelona, I'd love to go to Wine Tours near the city, 'Girona, Figures and Dali museum', hike across Pyrenes mountain, Girona and Costa Brava among umpteen other options.

At Madrid, I look forward to visit Toledo, El Escorial Monastery, Segovia etc. 

SS:  This itinerary indeed sounds exciting BJ. My best wishes to you. It seems we need to move on to the     next financial head, the stay at apartments/guest-houses.

BJ: Yeah SS, I'd love to stay in apartments/ guest-houses. The reason being with 3, 6-7, a 15 day time       frame we'd get the best deals in terms of price. Here we have divided time in 3 and 6-7 day frame         so that's a great idea. Plus if I wish to cook some-times there, I can save on my meals also.

SS: That's right. As we have planned your departure and arrival from the same city, Barcelona, it'd       also be interesting to rent a car, which you can pick and drop back at the airport !! Game ??

BJ: That's lovely SS. Save time and money, flexibility and driving across the rustic Spanish landscape     can be wonderful. That a fairy-tale trip. Thanks to Skyscannaer, I mean SS.

SS: So here are your best deals: Apartment for 6 days at Barcelona (Bed and Beach Barcelona                   Guesthouse) : INR 18,891. At Madrid (Hostal Commercial) for INR 5,571. That brings your total stay       cost at  INR 24,462.

Skyscanner - The Best deals on accommodations

Skyscanner - The Best deals on accommodations

BJ: That's too good . Can't wait for my car rentals !!!

SS: Here they are, BJ. A Volkswagon Polo for 9 days would cost us INR 14,488.

Skyscanner - The Best Car Deal

BJ: If I add a decent usage of 350 litres of gas @ .77 Euros/litre, I'd be in a need of 270 euros of fuel cost. That is INR 22680. That means all the heads clubbed together would sum up to INR 99,848. That's             amazing SS !!!! I never knew that travel could be so easy and economical. All credits to you             Skyscanner


BJ : All crredddiiiittttts to you skyscanner. Envelope??

Mom: BJ!! , BJ ??? what have you been murmuring last night? Anyways one envelope has been     delivered for you. It states: 'For your Spanish Trip, from your friend, Skyscanner'. 

BJ: Can't believe my dream has come true.

Mom: What ?

BJ: I've realized one thing today that Dreams come true, Mom. 

They come true with friends like Skyscanner.

PS: This post was written as a contest entry and did not receive any compensation in form of money or kind from any source.

Book Review: Wildebeest in a Rainstorm

One of the best things about extended travel is that it allows you to catch up on your back reading. That's just what I did while I was away, and I started with the latest book from Jon Bowermaster entitled Wildebeest in a Rainstorm: Profiles of Our Most Intriguing Adventurers, Conservationists, Shagbags and Wanderers.

The book is a collection of articles that Bowermaster has written over the past twenty years for magazines such as National Geographic Adventure and Outside profiling some of the top environmentalists, activists, and adventurers from around the globe. Peter Beard, Robert F. Kennedy Jr., Richard Branson, and George Schaller are just a few of the fascinating people in the book.

Wildebeest offers a perfect display of Bowermaster's writing style, which is, as always, excellent, even over these disparate articles written over the course of two decades about individuals who are all unique in their own right, but share some common characteristics, such as an adventurous spirit, focused determination, and a deep seeded concern with the well being of the planet on some level or another.

A perfect example of this is Peter Beard, an artist and activist, who spent much of his life in Africa, lured there at a young age by Karen Blixen's classic book Out of Africa. Beard is the subject of not just one, but two of the articles contained in Wildebeest, and he is also credited with the quote that gives the book its title. The first article is more of a profile of Beard's life working in a variety of countries on the continent sometimes as a hunter or doing wildlife research, and later taking photographs that would eventually make him famous. The second article follows a number of years later, when Bowermaster catches up with Beard in a New York hospital after a female elephant did its best to send Beard out of Africa permanently. Both stories are well done, and give you insights into Beard's character, which is both inspiring and sometimes tragic, at the same time.

One of the best elements of this book is that Jon happens to be friends with a number of the people that he had profiled. There is a casual familiarity in the way that he writes about them that makes it seem like we're joining him and a buddy as they go off on an adventure in the wilds of Nicaragua, Chile, or some other far flung place. Those friendships also put him in a unique position of understanding these men and women far better than just any writer who is sent off to cover a story.

It was also interesting to read some of the older articles and realize just how relevant they remain today, not only in the case of the particular person being profiled, but for the various causes or environmental issues that remain concerns years later. Bowermaster closes each of the chapters with a very brief update on what has become of the particular person as well, and there were times when I was reading that I couldn't help but look forward to those short follow-ups to find out how things have changed.

All in all, another good book to add to your bookshelf. It is a very quick and interesting read, and if you're like me, you'll be rushing to the Internet to see if you can find out more about these adventurers, and what has befallen them since Jon originally wrote their story.

POV: Leica M9 Monochromes "Outta De Box"

Photo © Tewfic El-Sawy/Leica M9+Voigtlander 40mm

Let me say it up front so there's no misunderstanding: I'm not a "fanboy" of any camera beyond considering them as utilitarian tools I use to make photographs. Some are better suited for particular photographic work, others are better ergonomically suited to my hands and way of thinking, etc. I have the exact same attitude to cameras as carpenters have to their hammers or pliers.

That out of the way, I have an admiration for the Leica M9's monochrome image quality. I frequently use a setting that allows it to shoot a monochrome jpg and a color DNG at the same time, and I am quite amazed at the quality of the monochrome jpgs right 'out of the box'. The  above photograph is an example...nothing but in-camera conversion.

Yes, the majority of the monochromatic jpgs out of the Leica M9 are -at least to my eyes- just right. Unless I specifically want to enhance these jpgs by adding some vignetting or burnt edges, there's no need for spending any time on Silver Efex, Photoshop, Lightroom presets...nothing. Boom!

Does it mean that the Leica M9 (and a quality prime lens) is my primary camera? No, it isn't, but when I need (and feel like it) to shoot monochromes, I choose it over my other cameras. When I was in Sa Pa a few weeks ago, I deliberately chose it with a Voigtlander 40mm for a bout of monochrome photography in its streets and market. I did the same in Ha Noi.

There are many aspects of the M9 that are, in comparison to the X-T1 and the X-Pro, outdated...even primitive. It's widely recognized that its ISO is almost unusable above 800, that its LCD sucks and its battery life is a little better than abysmal. However, its CCD sensor (when coupled with quality glass) churns out admirable jpg monochromes.

I gripe about the M9...but despite its annoying limitations, it has become analogous to the well-balanced well-worn hammer that fits in the hand of the carpenter as if it always belonged there.

Ah! If only it had auto-focus! But using -when possible- the zone focus system resolves this to a certain extent, provided the ambient light allows the use of f8 or f16.

I'm not as sanguine about the M9's color images though. I realize I'm amongst a tiny minority perhaps, but I'm not as enamored with the color images I've seen out of the Leica M9. The images produced by the Fujifilm X-T1 are -to my taste- superior in color rendition than what I'm able to get with my M9.

Seeing where I am photographically at this time, I would buy the Leica M Monochrom if I could, and use it whenever I needed to produce monochrome images, and then rely on the Fuji X-Pro1, and X-T1 for color...or on the Canon system that's been gathering some dust in my closet.

Hà Nội Noir | Audio Slideshow

Street photography has almost become an obsession. Arriving Hà Nội with my body clock completely out of whack didn't stop me from taking a quick walk about the streets of its Old Quarter.

As the oldest continuously developed area of Vietnam, Hà Nội's Old Quarter has a history that spans 2,000 years and represents the eternal soul of the city, and walking along some of its more than 36 streets, I remembered their names: Hang Gai, Hang Quat, Hang Bac and Hang Ma.

A majority of the street names in the Old Quarter start with the word hang, which means merchandise or shop. Hang Gai, where my hotel The Golden Silk Boutique is, offers silk clothing ready-made and tailored, embroidery, and silver products.

One of the assignments given to the group participants was Hà Nội Noir; a series of monochrome street photographs depicting the teeming life found in the small streets of this capital city. Over the course of the few days I spent in Hà Nội, I walked its 36 streets (well, almost all of them) and shot mostly from the hip as is my custom to capture impromptu scenes and candid expressions.

Most of the photographs were made with my new favorite combo: Fuji X-T1/Zeiss 12mm f2.8. Others were made with a Leica M9 and the Voigtlander 40mm f1.4.

 

Tewfic El-Sawy | Interview | Langly

Photo © Tewfic El-Sawy - All Rights Reserved

"I’ve visited India over twenty times over the past 16 years, and every time I visit I discover a new layer. Discovering India is like peeling an onion, one layer at a time reveals another layer, and there are probably millions of layers." 

I was recently interviewed by a staff member of Langly; a manufacturer of camera bags started by Evan Lane, a working photographer and director based out of Los Angeles. The camera bags are said to have been inspired by the life of the freelance photographer, nomadic professionals looking for something to protect their gear and look good doing it.

You can read the full text of the interview here.

I gather the Langly people saw my Exposure website, and liked what they saw...especially the photo essay on the Northwest India, and suggested an India-centric interview.

Langly camera bags was funded through a Kickstarter campaign, and successfully raised $88,000 from the public in summer of 2012. Although Langly bags appear to be fine products, I was not asked to endorse them nor was it suggested that I get remunerated in any way for this interview to appear on its website.

The photograph on this post of this unblinking girl is probably one of my many favorites of India. These three girls were part of a nomadic family in the Rann of Kutch, and sold tribal jewelry. 

Prantik Mazumder | Guatemala

Photo © Prantik Mazumder -All Rights Reserved

The play of light and shadows!

A few months ago, I was in Antigua (Guatemala) at the Foundry Photojournalism Workshop, and realized how visually interesting the contrasty play of shadows and light was in this part of the world, especially when the sun is at the top of the sky, and creates strong and compelling shadows.

And here comes a gallery of monochromes featuring just that...black and white photographs made in various towns of Guatemala; from Sacatepequez to Chichicastenango. Essentially street photographs made by a photographer that I regard as extremely adept at capturing the contrast of shadow and light, and its nuances.

Prantik Mazumder is a self-taught photographer, originally from Calcutta, India, and moved to North America for his graduate studies. Currently settled in Ithaca, New York, he's pursuing a career in scientific research.

This is not the first time I feature Prantik's work on this blog, but it's the first time that I choose his monochrome work.  He shows us work from Guatemala, Peru, Mexico, New Orleans and of his native Calcutta.

Backpacker 2009 Gear Guide Online!

It's like Christmas came in April! The 2009 Backpacker Magazine Gear Guide is now available online. As usual, the guide has some great reviews and insights into the best gear available for outdoor pursuits.

The best of the best is compiled into the Backpacker Editor's Choice Awards, which in addition to their category winners, include two special awards as well, the "Editor's Choice Green Award", which went to the Big Agnes Salt Creek recycled tent. The other separate award is the "Editor's Choice Gold Award", which was given to the MSR MugMate Coffee Maker and the North Face Base Camp duffel bag.

Other great gear that won Editor's Choice honors include the Garmin Oregon 400t gps unit, the New Balance 1500 Rainier Boot, and the Osprey Sprint Series of packs.

And if that wasn't already enough gear to get you salivating, and your wallet crying, checkout the Backpacker Gear Guides for Backpacks, Tents, Boots, Sleeping Bags, and other Essentials. Be warned though, reading through this may cause an unexplained urge to head out to your nearest gear shop.

Nyepi | The Atlantic's In Focus

Photo © Agung Parameswara/Getty Images-All Rights Reserved

The Atlantic's In Focus (which, in my long held view, is the best photography blog of all the major news media) has recently published a gallery featuring 27 photographs of Nyepi.

Every year, the Indonesian island of Bali celebrates Nyepi, the Balinese New Year's Day. Nyepi is a day of silence, and is dedicated to self-reflection. It's the day when people (Balinese Hindus and tourists) stay home and are not allowed to use lights, start fires, work, travel or enjoy entertainment. There is little or no noise from TVs and radios, and few signs of activity are seen even inside homes.

However, the days surrounding Nyepi are anything but silent - several rituals of offering and cleansing take place before and after New Year's Day, to rid worshipers of past evils and bestow good fortune in the year ahead.

I haven't been to Bali during Nyepi, but I attended a number of Melasti rituals which start off Nyepi, but are also frequently held all though the year.  A Melasti ritual is performed near the sea, and is intended to purify various sacred icons belonging to several temples. During the festival, sacred purifying water is obtained from the sea.

Photo © Tewfic El-Sawy-All Rights Reserved

In the above photograph, I photographed a Melasti in Bali during which a number of women (and men) lost conciousness and went into short trances. The one above was particularly interesting because it coincided when the sacred water from the sea was brought onshore in a large bottle (seen on the left under the white umbrella). 

Mosa’ab El Shamy | Egypt's Mawlid |TIME LightBox

Photo © Mosa’ab El Shamy- Courtesy Time LightBox

"Mawlid" is the Arabic word for birthday, and in the context of this feature, is a religious birthday. The most celebrated in the Muslim world is the birthday of Muhammad, the Prophet of Islam. However, there are many others religious birthdays that are observed in some countries, such as Egypt.

Although the majority of Muslim scholars favor the observance of Muhammad's birthday, the more orthodox do not. In some countries, such as Egypt and Sudan, Mawlid is used as a generic term for the celebration of birthdays of local Sufi saints as well. Around 3,000 Mawlid celebrations are held each year and attended by tens of thousands of people.

The largest Mawlid in Egypt attracts up to three million people, and honors Ahmad al-Badawi, a local 13th-century Sufi saint. It is easy to forget that Egypt was once the seat of the Fatimid Caliphate, a Shia Islamic caliphate, which left exquisite examples of Islamic architecture such as the Al Azhar University, the Al Hakim mosque and the El Hussein mosque (Masjid El Imam Hussein).

The largest Mawlid is that of Ahmad Al-Badawi, the founder of the Badawiyyah Sufi order, a Moroccan Sufi who fought the Crusaders in the 13th century.

Exploring The Mawlids of Egypt is the work of Egyptian photographer Mosa’ab El Shamy, a Cairo-based independent photographer who covers daily news stories, as well as in-depth cultural and social documentary projects. In 2013, TIME picked one of Mosa'ab's photographs among its best 10 photos of the year. He won an Award of Excellence from Pictures of the Year International competition and then selected by PDN among its 30 Emerging Photographers in 2014, as well as one of the Guardian’s Top 10 Youth in Digital Media.  

He also won the Egypt International Photography Contest and Arab Union of Photographers competition and was shortlisted for numerous awards including the Terry O’Neil award, Hasselblad and Professional Photographer of The Year.

Everest 2009: An Interview with IMG's Eric Simonson

Alan Arnette stays on a roll, kicking off the week with a good interview on his Everest 2009 page with Eric Simonson, the man behind International Mountain Guides, one of the top guide services on the South Side of Everest.

In the interview, Eric talks about the challenges of running a mountaineering company like IMG, where he has to balance guiding with customer service, and more. He also shares his thoughts on "green" climbing on Everest, saying that it's difficult to call anything about climbing the mountain "green", but steps are being taken to improve that where ever it can be done. He even touches very briefly on what he expects out of the Discovery Channel crew that will be joining the team to film the next edition of Everest: Beyond The Limit.

All told, another good interview with one of the key players on climbing on the South Side, if not the entire mountain itself. As Alan notes, IMG has an impeccable safety record, not only on Everest, but plenty of other mountains as well, including all of the Seven Summits. Good luck to the IMG team once again this year, and I can't wait to see you on Discovery in the Fall.

On a different note, in yesterday's post to his Everest page, Alan wrote that many of the climbers will be setting off on March 25th for Kathmandu, which is just a bit over two weeks off. It's hard to imagine that another year has nearly come and gone, and we're ready for a new Everest season to begin. To all those climbers who will be finishing up their packing and final preparations over the next few weeks, don't forget to pack your toothbrush!

Trip to Florence

Phew... It took us no time to reach Florence (Firenze Santa Maria Novella) from Naples.There was a sea change in the two cities. Not only the sea, but everything else was also, quite different. A far smaller city than Naples, it's more European (than Italian) too. One could easily touch the prosperity here. Unlike its southern cousin Naples, there is a herculean meticulousness that is associated with Florence. Not only does Michelangelo live here through his eternal creations, but also its heritage, physical infrastructure of Firenze, the cleanliness, upkeep of the monuments etc. can hold your senses. Florence is the cradle for modern day Opera, a breeding ground for a unique architecture style of its own, and definitively the renaissance. By all means Florence is a different city at day, and yes an altogether a different city at night.

Historical Center, Florence

Hotel Embassy where we stayed was near to the station, and should say, it was fantastic. The room was comfortable, staff helpful, and the breakfast was good with a lot of variety.

The beautiful squares or piazzas that compellingly invites the white pigeons to throng for feed, compliment the artistic architecture that can take your breath away. On our way, we found many academicians on their study tours with local guides. Step after step, the beauty of the city sinks in deep, with the heritage the city carries with itself. At times, the entire city looks like an art gallery minus the formal settings plus the shining overhead sun. All the tourist places can easily be covering by walking around (Yes, walking is highly recommended).

Light Drizzle add to the Florence magic

Within few feet, we could reach the restaurant that was a few blocks away to gulp our favorite Cappuccino. Within our sight, we had the famed church of Santa Maria Novella. Its grandeur spoke loud about its emphatic class. We began our trip by taking small walk to reach the historical center through Piazza Del Signora, Piazza Del Giovanni among others. We finally reached Duomo. The grand Duomo and its surroundings can hold forever by their charm and magnificence, and as stars lit the sky, the city of Florence adores a totally different look altogether. It drizzled in the evening and by eight at night, everything was 'morning dew' fresh.

Arno at Night

The lights across the tourist places in the city were optimal and sufficient.The beautiful ponte or bridges that dot river Arno makes the picturesque landscape even more special. There were a lot of bicycle riders in the city.

We left our Hotel to catch a regional train to Pisa so that we were in time to reach back to Florence, the very same evening.

Florence is indeed a feast of culture and can come in courses that would,for sure, stay with you forever.

Shop What

• Avoid shopping in Florence, if travelling on a Budget trip. You'll find some good bargains in Pisa.

Bottom Line

• Yes, Many people speak English and the happy trend continues as we go further north in Italy.
• Food is expensive and make your choice judiciously about the restaurant. Historical center is a better place for meals.
• Walk your way through.
• You could save on your lodging if you choose a Hotel bit far, because being a smaller city, that 'bit' will never be too far.

Travel Facts

• Stayed : 2 days.
• Stayed at : Hotel Embassy - Definite Yes, Recommended.
• Traveled with my better half and the journey could be easily divided in two parts Florence at Day and at Night. 
• Traveled in TrenItalia from Naples in January 2013.

The Birth of Color | When Krishna Met Radhe

I'm pleased to feature my photo essay titled The Birth of Color-When Krishna Met Radhe with more than 20 "full-bleed" color photographs of the festival of Holi in Vrindavan and Mathura. I chose to publish this 'sampling' of photographs on Exposure, one of the photo-narrative portals that is designed to give photographers space to publish photo essays. Some of these images and others will also be published on my website.

These photographs were made during my recent The Sacred Cities Photo Expedition-Workshop to Varanasi and Vrindavan. We spent around a week photographing the festivities of Holi in Mathura and Vrindavan and in retrospect, it was one of the most difficult photo expeditions-workshops to operate due to the chaotic nature of the festival, and other factors which I address in more details here.

Part of the title to this photo essay is obviously inspired by the movie When Harry Met Sally...an iconic movie if there was ever one. There's no direct link with the movie's story, but I thought it was a catchy title. In fact, the festival of Holi is based on a number of legends; only one of which is based on the love story between Krishna and Radhe.

Producing an audio-slideshow of Holi is quite difficult because of the disparate events that took place whilst we were there. Particularly difficult is the editing that will have to go into producing a coherent audio track.

Photo © Charlotte Rush-Bailey-All Rights Reserved

Seeing the imagery I returned with, I now think whatever happened to me: getting whacked on the elbow by stick-wielding out-women during one of Holi's 'rituals', getting smothered with color powder or doused with colored water, was really worth the trouble.

Dan Eckstein | Horn Please

Photo © Dan Eckstein-All Rights Reserved

The first time I traveled in India I had the rather unnerving experience of riding in a bus from Jaipur to Jodhpur in pitch darkness. I shall never forget my growing terror in watching an incoming truck blinking its signal light which I thought meant it intended to turn right into the path of my bus.

It was an enormous relief to realize the truckers were doing so to indicate their presence (and the limits of their carriages) to other incoming vehicles.

The Indian truckers usually belong to a certain caste, and are generally treated with contempt by their employers. Their trucks are often decorated with beautiful artwork, colorful gewgaws, religious icons and slogans, making a convoy of such vehicles look like a circus is moving to town. These long-distance lorry drivers transport cargos of freight across the whole of India; tea from Assam, computer parts from Bangalore and exotic flowers and vegetables from the southern states of the country.

Dan Eckstein's project Horn Please documents the trucks, drivers and roadside culture of India.  Having driven 10,000 kilometers over two years to document these truckers, Dan produced "Horn Please: The Decorated Trucks of India"; a book that is to be published by powerHouse Books on December 2nd, 2014.

Dan is is a photographer based in Los Angeles and Brooklyn, who spent four years studying photography at Skidmore College. He assisted Magnum photographer Bruno Barbey in Paris. His work has been widely published and exhibited and he was included in The Collector's Guide to Emerging Art Photography. He was awarded Best Photo Essay in PDN's World In Focus photo contest and included in American Photography 30.

Selvaprakash L. | Vanishing Tribes

Photo © Selva Prakash-All Rights Reserved

On every single trip to India, I am amazed at the Indians' ingenuity in creating and crafting employment and occupational opportunities for themselves...whether it's the punkawallahs waving their flag at Sufi shrines for a few paisas to the young boys who peer in the waters of Haridwar in search of coins donated by the visiting pilgrims.

Most of these "jobs"are slowly disappearing, largely because of India's rapid modernization and socio-economic progress, its modern generation prefers not to follow ancestral trade practices, and the desire to escape caste restrictions. Many ancient practices are fading or have already faded out, while others are currently on their way to become a quaint relic of the past.

What prevents the punkawallah at the Nizzam Uddin shrine being replaced by electric fans? Tradition perhaps...but that too might well change.

Vanishing Tribes by photographer Selva Prakash is a collection of 8 color environmental portraits depicting such transitory trades, ranging from the milkman who delivers milk to homes to the roving knife grinder.

As for the man holding a sort of doll at the end of a pole in the above photograph...I really have no idea what he sells. He seems to have been photographed against the backdrop of a Ferris wheel...so perhaps he's involved in a carnival.

Note: Through the photographers Selvaprakash and Subrata Bose, I learned that this man is a 'Jow Mittai" or candy seller. The red, white, green and yellow strips seen on the pole are gelatinous candy strips popular among rural and semi urban children of India.

I recall the occasional cry of "robabekyah" in the streets of the Cairo suburb of my youth. Most probably extinct now, it announced the man who bought one's old clothes and miscellaneous junk such as empty glass bottles, cans, old shoes, etc. Probably the cry was derived from the Spanish (or Ladino) ropa vieja. Ladino of course, was originally spoken in the former territories of the Ottoman Empire, as Egypt was.

But I digressed.

Selvaprakash L. started his career in photography as a staff photographer for a leading Tamil newspaper. He was Chief Photographer with Dinakaran and DNA, and is now Chief photographer with TIMEOUT, Bangalore. He participated in a number of international photo workshops such as ingapore International Photo Festival 2008 (SIPF), Angkor Photo festival( Projection) 2010 and Photovisa International Photo festival, Russia 2010, Noorderlicht International Photo festival 2011, Delhi Photo Festival 2011 and Lagos Photo Festival 2011 and won numerous international awards.

His photographs have been published in Asian Geo, New Internationalist, and several leading newspapers and magazines in India.

Mountain Hardwear Launches Outdoor Social Networking Site

Gear manufacturer Mountain Hardwear has launched a new site called The Expedition Republic which looks to be a social networking site for climbers, mountaineers, and outdoor enthusiasts in general.

The splash page for this new endeavor allows you to look around a mountain setting, in pseudo 3D, and click on a few items to get some cool video and more information on some specific topics. There are also links to some of the Mountain Hardwear gear shown in the videos as well, as of course part of the focus it to sell more stuff too.

Clicking the option to sign up for the Republic takes you to a different page which looks more like a traditional social networking site. Here you'll see who the active members are, find all kinds of useful links related to Mountain Hardwear, and a collection of cool mountaineering and climbing videos. Becoming a member allows you to customize your own page, enter the forums (of which here is only one at the moment), read the Republic Blog, and have access to groups, which presumably will help you connect with other users who share your interests. I say presumably, because as of this writing, there aren't any groups yet either.

Clearly the Republic is in it's early stages of development, and MH is trying to build something cool here for the community. if you join now you'll also be eligible to win some great gear, which is never a bad thing. So, if you're not already all social networked out with Facebook, Twitter, and the rest, head on over, sign up and join the fun.