Himalaya Spring 2009 Update: Teams in Kathmandu, Some Still Heading North

It is now safe to say that the 2009 Spring Himalaya season is in full swing, as many climbers are now arriving in Kathmandu and making the final preparations for their impending expeditions into the Himalaya.

Alan Arnette added some information to his Everest 2009 page today, with updates straight from the teams themselves, who are already in Nepal. As of this writing, the border to Tibet is still closed, although rumors continue to circulate that it'll reopen on or around April 1st. To that end, several teams are still planning to make attempts on Everest from the North Col route, including a team from Summit Climb, who will not only be going up Everest this year, but also plan a Cho Oyu expedition as well. They'll be joined in Tibet by a Canadian team known as the Canadian Mad Frogs, who also have their eyes on the summit from the north. The 7 Summits Club is not so optimistic however, and they made the jump to the South Side earlier this week.

Another note of interest is that the CTMA (China-Tibet Mountaineering Association) has announced that they will personally over see the fixing of the ropes on the North Side this spring. There has been some concern over who would handle those duties, since Russell Brice and his Himex team have moved to the South as well. In the past, Himex has usually taken care of the ropes themselves, charging the other teams a nominal fee to use them. But with few teams on the mountain, it looked like it could possibly be an issue, but that concern now seems to be over.

ExWeb has some good updates from the region as well, starting with the news that the unrest amongst the Maoist rebels in the Kangchenjunga area has now ended. As I noted a few days back, it seems that unrest, and general strikes, flare up on an annual basis about this time, only to die down again as the climbers start appearing.

ExWeb is also reporting that Manaslu seems to be the popular mountain this spring, with more expected traffic than anywhere else, save the Everest South Side. The mountain stands 8163 meters (26,758 feet) in height as is located along the Nepal/Tibet border, to the east of Annapurna. It is the 8th highest mountain in the world, and is often used as a good climb for gaining experience for the other 8000 meter peaks, which may help to explain the traffic there this spring.

Finally, look way ahead to the next Winter Season in the Karakorum, ExWeb says that Russian climbers Victor Kozlov and Nickolay Totmjanin are currently in Pakistan, and on the Baltoro Glacier, scouting K2 for an attempt by the Russian national climbing team to that mountain next winter. That'll be a huge expedition to watch down the line for sure.

Everest 2009: Discovery Channel Goes with IMG!

Fans of the television show Everest: Beyond the Limit from the Discovery Channel are probably happy to hear that the show will return later this year, but it looks like it probably won't feature Russell Brice and his Himex Team. Instead, it seems that Discovery has elected to go with IMG (International Mountain Guides) who will have a whopping 50 clients going up the mountain this year. According to a post on the IMG Blog the Discovery Team will be joining their climbers and trekkers in just a few weeks time.

I suppose it is possible that Discovery will follow both teams, but doubtful. The resources and personal to film on the mountain are quite scarce, and the logistics of trying to handle two different teams would be challenging to say the least. I'm guessing they decided they wanted a change of pace for the third season of Beyond the Limit, and IMG has a lot more experience on the South Side of Everest than Himex does.

For their part, climbers who have signed up with Himex are in for a bit longer days on the Everest. The team has staked out a campsite that is about an hour below the typical base camp location, and on those long days of climbing up to C1 and back down, an extra hour of trekking at the beginning and the end are going to be grueling.

Thanks to Alan Arnette for the news on IMG. Alan's Everest 2009 page has nearly daily updates with all kinds of great stories on the looming season, the climbers, and more. Bookmark it immediately!

Update: Forget what I said about two camera crews. I guess Discovery has deep enough pockets and resources that they can indeed handle two teams covering both IMG and Himex on the mountain. In the comments below, Alan confirms that both teams will be featured on Beyond the Limit. He also says that IMG will have 24 climbers not 50 as initially reported. Still a good size team though, but much more manageable.

Looks like we're going to get a double dose of Everest this year on Discovery.

Trip to Venice, Through the Night.

Gazing the evening sun setting itself across the undulating waves on the lagoon water of Venice, for a moment we felt as if the sun also wanted to stay a bit longer. It seemed the sun wanted some time more, to soak in the mesmerizing beauty of Venice. Or perhaps sail across the moon and stars in the night. Venice at night manifests romanticism. The rising waters across the land, the winter quiet, and the clear sky calm, it’s a rare combination we never everwitnessed again in our many European trips. Venice, the only pedestrian city in the world, is special, frame after frame, moment after moment. Without an exaggeration, Venice’s beauty builds, stays and conquers your senses.

One of the several canals, donned by Gondolas

 If our evening had been eternal, our night was even more magical. The spurt drizzle made the city dew fresh. The bustle was back on the wet cobbled streets and the neatly parked gondolas and the sweet music aboard were flowing back around Venice.

St. Mark's Square

St. Mark's Square

We came back to Ponte De Rialto (Rialto bridge) across The Grand Canal to begin our journey and reached Bell tower of St. Mark. The square outside is fabulous to say the least and offers some exquisite views. Finally we reached Basilica di San Marco.

Basilica di San Marino

 The magnificence of Basilica is unbelievable, and more so the thing that make it special is the serene setting. The lagoon water brace the basilica steps with reverence and the moon light stands guard of its grandeur.

The historical center can hold you forever. The monuments look fabulous beneath the night sky. They are all appropriately lit with a lot of importance to the finer details.

The Venice charm is best explored in getting lost without a map. Identify a part of Venice, put your map deep inside your pocket and get happily lost in the street and views of Venice. Open the map back, and happily discover the places you have just covered. Most, almost all the places can easily be covered on feet, without the use of anyVaporetti or taxi.

Vignette outside a Shop on our journey of getting lost

There are some islands around Venice that happen to be of a great tourist interest. Burano and Murano are worth being on itineary. They are popular for the Glass work, a popular souvenir choice, albeit a lot expensive. However my choice would go for being in Venice for 2 days and see the colored and picturesque Burano for another day.

For all reasons and sometimes none, Venice, in day and night alike, is synonymous with magic.

The magic stayed with me in the dreams that night, and continues to stay with me even today. We left for Milan early morning next day.

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In the first part of the posts Venice, Through the Day, you'd find the regular features, Shop What, Travel Facts and Bottom Line. 
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Aconcagua Controversy: Was The Rescue Team Negligent?

There is another controversy that has been brewing in the mountaineering community, this time in regards to a death on Aconcagua back in early January. The reports were that Federico Campanini, an Argentinean climbing guide, and one of his clients, Elena Senin, had died on the mountain. The pair, along with the rest of their team, reached the summit of South America's highest mountain along the usual route, but while they were at the top, a fast moving storm moved into the area. Suddenly blinded by a snowstorm, the team attempted to descend, but accidently went down the more technically challenging Polish Route. According to the story, Federico and Elena fell to their deaths, and the remainder of the team was eventually rescued by a helicopter that plucked them off the mountain.

Early last week a video made its way out onto the Internet that cast a completely different light on the incident. Appearing on YouTube, the video purportedly shows an Aconcagua Search and Rescue Team standing around, doing little to help, while Campanini struggles for his life. There are some indications that he is being cursed by his "rescuers" and at one point, one of them radios back to base to ask permission to leave him behind. Federico also has a rope tied to him and is dragged through the snow, while he crawls on all fours.

Needless to say, I won't link to the video, but you can find out more about it in this post from ExWeb and this story from the National Geographic Adventure Blog.

Of course, the story has once again divided the mountaineering community. There are some who say that the video shows just a small slice of the attempt to rescue Campanini, and that at that point the rescue team was exhausted after hours of trying to assist the Italian climber. In order to get him down, the team was going to have to take him back up the mountain, and down the normal route, and it was proving very difficult to do so. Some would say it was impossible for them to save him at all. These defenders also say that while they do appear to be cursing Campanini, that that is just the manner of their speech and not specifically directed at him.

On the other hand, those critical of what they saw in the video say that the SAR team wasn't doing enough to help Federico, and point to high altitude rescues on Everest, K2, and other major Himalayan peaks to show that it can be done. They also say that more could have been done to help his condition, and no matter what, he didn't need to be cursed or treated poorly.

Over the past few years, following these events, I've learned to not be quick to judge, which is part of the reason why I haven't posted on this story until now. When high on a mountain, with dangerous conditions, things are never black and white, and usually it takes awhile to get the complete story of what happened. I do agree that this video is just a tiny slice of the events, and it doesn't really show us the whole picture, but it doesn't show us a good picture either. At the very least, the SAR team could have tried to make Federico comfortable and showed him so more dignity.

The events that occurred on Aconcagua back on January 8th were indeed tragic, and it's a shame that two people lost their lives on the mountain. Hopefully, at the very least, this incident will shed some light on the need for better rescue training on the mountain, and work to ensure that it doesn't happen again.

My condolences to the families of the two fallen climbers. It is a shame that they have had to suffer this loss, and then to find out this controversy a month later.

POV: A Favorite Staged Photograph

Photo © Tewfic El-Sawy-All Rights Reserved

It's not often that I stage a photograph, and that it also becomes one of my favorites. But it's exactly what happened during my just completed The Sacred Cities: Varanasi & Vrindavan Photo Expedition-Workshop.

Walling back from a free-for-all photo shoot on the banks of the Yamuna river in Vrindavan, I saw brilliant and powerful ultramarine colored house walls, happily clashing with the remaining drab gray concrete walls of the neighborhood; reminiscent of the houses of Jodhpur's Brahmpuri area, the houses in Chefchaouen (Morocco), or even Reckitt's Blue Laundry Bluing (a traditional laundry whitener).

An elderly widow passing by prompted me to ask her to pose for us,  and showing no hesitation whatsoever, she almost hopped on the side step and sat there...patiently waiting for us to finish taking her photograph. I didn't need to prompt as to how to sit...doing so generally results in people looking awkward, and telling aged people how to pose sometimes causes them discomfort...so I refrain from doing that. My initial thought was that the pose did seem awkward but on reflection, I realized that many elderly women in  India adopt that very pose...the hand over a hip, and the rest of the arm forming a sort of triangle...almost at right angle to the body.

Photo © Tewfic El-Sawy-All Rights Reserved

Some time later, an attractive woman (presumably the lady of the house) came over to investigate the commotion outside her home, and while extremely graceful and gracious...she didn't have the photogenic ingredient that the widow had. At least, in my view.

Yes, it does happen...age trumps youth and beauty.

Vietnam travel - is it ethical to visit orphanages?

For an expanding number of voyagers, going on vacation doesn't mean lazing on a shoreline or visiting sights. Rather, it includes investing their excursion time volunteering in neighborhood groups. Whether its working with kids in halfway houses, serving to fabricate houses, or showing English, supposed voluntourism is a quickly developing division of the travel business.

See more: Vietnam travel

Be that as it may the prevalence of shelter tourism crosswise over Southeast Asia specifically is a very questionable advancement. Presently, it has started a worldwide open deliberation about the morals and benefits of volunteering; one including the United Nations Children's Fund (UNICEF), support associations, and travel and visit administrators as far and wide as possible.

At its most fundamental, shelter tourism can mean going to a halfway house for a couple of hours as a component of booked visit that additionally includes more traditional exercises, for example, touring. Some individuals, however, decide to use longer periods volunteering in shelters, paying for the chance to play and read with the youngsters, or showing them English.

Numerous volunteers discover the experience exceptionally emotive and inspiring, life getting updated sometimes, while even the individuals who visit for just a couple of hours can feel that their gifts will have any kind of effect to the lives of the vagrants. In any case for some help associations, shelter tourism is an unwelcome sensation; one that transforms the most helpless parts of society into simple vacation spots.

'Ask yourself whether a comparable circumstance would be permitted in your own particular nation: busloads of travelers putting into a kids' home for brief visits, being permitted to interface with and photo the youngsters?

Ask Lonely Planet: where would it be advisable for me to try for an occasion with volunteering?

In conjunction with UNICEF, Friends International propelled a fight in October 2011 to put a stop to shelter tourism in Cambodia. 'Shelter tourism exposes youngsters to misuse, puts them at danger through unregulated appearance and powers awful practice in connection to private tend to kids,' said Ms Ngo.

Shelter tourism is currently common crosswise over Southeast Asia. In the north of Thailand, particularly around Chiang Mai, various halfway houses are populated by the youngsters from Thailand's ethnic minority slope tribes, long the most hindered individuals in Thai society. Various shelters in the south of Thailand as well, energize to Us$400 a week for volunteers to invest time with kids probably stranded by the crushing 2004 torrent.

Somewhere else, shelter tourism is a developing wander in Laos, with shelters around Luang Prabang pulling in numerous volunteers, while there are likewise chances to work in halfway houses in Vietnam. What's more now that Myanmar (Burma) has risen as the most sizzling goal in Southeast Asia, the marvel has spread there as well. The most respectable shelters in Myanmar, however, don't request outside volunteers, yet for individuals to help abundantly required things like vitamins, pencils and pens and toys.

It is Cambodia, however, which is by a wide margin the most mainstream nation for halfway house tourism. Siem Reap is a specific hotspot on the grounds that it is the entryway town to Angkor Wat, Cambodia's foremost traveler locate, and very nearly every voyager passes through there. Climbing guest numbers to Cambodia have helped drive a sensational increment in shelters. As per UNICEF, there has been a 65% ascent in the quantity of halfway houses in Cambodia since 2005. Presently, there are more than 300 in the nation, yet just 21 of those are controlled by the state.

A large number of those shelters have been set up exclusively to profit from guest gifts and volunteer charges. 'It's presently possibly a lucrative business to run a shelter,' said Ms Ngo. 'Market it the right way and individuals can be moderately effortlessly conned into giving over cash to associations which need even fundamental benchmarks of childcare.'

More awful still, is the way that various individuals, including nonnatives, who have set up halfway houses are sexual stalkers and a couple have been indicted for misusing the kids in their consideration. 'The greater part of these spots have no firm kid insurance approach set up. Some even permit guests to take kids away on day outings,' said Ms Ngo.

Few volunteers are mindful as well, that the majority of the youngsters they will work with are not vagrants. UNICEF appraises that 72% of the 12,000 or somewhere in the vicinity kids in Cambodian shelters have no less than one living parent, or other close relations. Frantic neediness, however, makes it simple to induce uneducated families that their children will be better off in a shelter. A comparative circumstance happens in northern Thailand, where slope tribe families are told their youngsters will get an instruction by living in a halfway house.

At the point when the kids are vagrants, there is the dread of long haul mental harm from the children holding with volunteers, just to see them vanish from their lives after several weeks. It is faulty as well, what genuine effect volunteers can have in the event that they need particular preparing in kid mind or pharmaceutical. While individuals may think halfway house tourism offers the opportunity to do great, the truth is regularly altogether different.

Hue travel

Shade is the old capital of Imperial Vietnam, where the Nguyen Lords based their administration amid their rule over Vietnam between the seventeenth and nineteenth century. It remained the national capital until 1945, when Bao Dai (the teammate ruler) got away into outcast and Ho Chi Minh pronounced independance from France in Hanoi. 

Therefore the city of Hue and its surroundings are secured with noteworthy landmarks, sanctuaries and castles. Regardless of torment from its focal position amid the Vietnamese/American War it truely merits its status as an UNESCO World Heritage site, as all over you go there are noteworthy structures bouncing out of the wide open - to say nothing of the supreme royal residence of Hue itself. 

Hue - Ancient Capital

While the city of Hue is creating, the occupants of Hue are reknowned for their traditionalism - even the adolescent feel it is their obligation to protect Hue's traditions, customs and construction modeling for eras to come. They are known all through Vietnam for the way they talk Vietnamese, their customary style of dress and their sustenance, which beyond question is a percentage of the best Vietnam brings to the table. 

The heads used to request the absolute best delights, and a great many exceptional dishes were produced to fulfill their tastes. The result is a tremendous determination of light, sensitive and perfectly made dishes, intended to permit the ruler to consume at recreation, every one interesting, and delightfully individual yet not all that substantial as to forestall him attempting more dishes. 

The city is part by the Perfume River, with the majestic city and markets to the North and the more up to date structures of the city of Hue to the South. Tint remains a generally residential community, and getting around is simple enough, whether by bike, cyclo or motorbike. (despite the fact that appreciatively mechanized vehicles are banned from inside the Imperial city) 

While the Imperial city is a fabulous spot to investigate, your visit to Hue would not be finished in the event that you didn't investigate the enormous cluster of tombs, sanctuaries and destroys in the wide open. The most ideal approach to investigate is to jump on the once again of a motorbike and let the driver take you to his most loved sights - as you pass through the farmland you will see a lot of people more excellent old building jump out of the paddy fields. 

Related tour: Vietnam travel

You can likewise use an excellent day taking a pontoon trek up the stream, keeping in mind it is conceivable to see a few landmarks and pagodas from the water's side, we exceptionally prescribe joining a motorbike driver for a drive once you have gone up the waterway, to see a greater amount of the view. The farmland around Hue is staggering and made all the more enchanted for the sights you will experience.

Trip to Milan. A Mileu.

Milan was the last of the Italian cities in our trip, as also the city we were flying out from Italy. There was an early morning train from Venice to reach Milan. The timing of our train was awkwardly early being 5 in the morning. Not sure about Vaporetti services, we had to rely on our feet. The morning Venice was as calm, as we had left it in the night. Odd students crossed our way, as also some enthusiast morning walkers. It was quite cold and with our hustle and bustle, we reached our station well...earlier than we thought we would.

There weren't many travelers for that time of the day. An interesting story took place, that day on the station(I'll post that later). We almost lost our train. Thankfully, to  be in Milan, we boarded. Then some snores ahead we reached a rather bitterly cold Milan. Cold winds blazed ferociously across the channel of walls on the 'Milano Centrale' station. The chill took us by surprise without an exaggeration. thankfully, it didn't snow as we were expecting so through news in Venice.

Milano Centrali -  http://blog.kenkaminesky.com

We kept our bags at 'Luggage room' situated on the station. This gave us some time to be at the Historical Center. Milan is as cosmopolitan as fashionable. Italians prefer to associate it of being more European too than Italian. Milan is a major financial center in Europe. The morning office goers bustle was quite different from its Italian siblings(cities). Swanky cars and an array of traffic lights dotted Milan everywhere. High rise skyscrapers and meticulously executed town planning gives Milan a distinct flavor of its own. And yes, how can we forget the traditional historical center of an Italian city. Men and women alike, all are dressed elegantly and perfectly.None is in 'out' of fashion.  Also, evidently, it's very much a global city. English is widely spoken in Milan.

After roaming around for a bit, we caught a bus to the Malpensa airport. The expressway joining the city was excellent, with tempting 'Geneva' posts overhead. It wasn't congested but it may get so sometimes. So it's safer to keep that additional margin of time. Malpensa airport is quite picturesque with beautiful snow capped mountains in the background.

Snow Capped Mountains silhouetting the Blue sky - http://www.i-enry-aviation.it/guidamxp.htm

I just so wish, that had we got an additional day, we would have had sufficient time to explore the city. Alas, (for consolation in this case), there is always a next time. If going only for travel, a day and a half would be ideal for Milan.
We caught our return flight via Cairo to reach back Mumbai.

Phewww, Italy was some trip!!!

Travel Facts

• Stayed : In Milan for 1/2 a day .
• Stayed at : Didn't have to stay in a hotel. 
• Traveled with my better half .
• Traveled in TrenItallia from Venice in January 2013.
• Traveled to : Mumbai via Cairo in Egypt Air

You've been to Milan? Do you want to travel to Milan? Feedback for my post(s) ? Look forward to your comments !

Hội An | Tewfic El-Sawy

I'm on a roll and featuring another photo essay on Exposure; Hội An: Port of the Cham Kingdom;

This time it's of photographs made in the lovely town of Hội An during my two photo expeditions-worskhops to Vietnam in 2012 and 2014.

Departing from my usual "no frills" documentary style of travel photography, I used Color Efex Pro 4 (Nik Collection) to give the photographs a sort of glamour glow, and enhanced the mustard-yellow color of Hội An's famous walls. 

Most of the photographs were made in 2014, and made with the Fuji X-T1 camera. I generally used the Zeiss Touit 12mm (effective 18mm) lens, and the XF 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 on specific photo shoots such as that with the traditional fisherman. For the photographs made in 2012, I used a Canon 5D Mark II.

I shared my experience using the Fuji X-T1 and the couple of lenses mentioned above on a separate post on this blog, and explain how it impressed me to the point that I didn't miss my Canon cameras during the 2+ weeks of my 2014 Vietnam adventure.

In this Hội An photo essay, I chose photographs that reflect a number of styles; street photography, fashion and model photography and pure travel.

The ancient town Hội An is a well-preserved example of a South-East Asian trading port dating from the 15th to the 19th century. Its buildings, though many have recently been converted to shops and restaurants, still have an ancient ambiance to them...despite the ever increasing influx of tourists who come to enjoy this small corner of Vietnam.

In the 18th century, Hội An was considered by Chinese and Japanese merchants to be the best destination for trading in all of Southeast Asia, but its importance dropped significantly with the development of neighboring Đà Nẵng as a main trade center.

5 day travel north east VietNam adventure

The enterprise through the nation's Northeast gives explorers an unparalleled chance to find a concealed corner of Vietnam. Blending drive through terrific landscapes with visits to business sectors of mountain tribes, towns and notable destinations, you will appreciate and experience the district's remarkable society.

Begin from Hanoi, visit Lang Son then Cao Bang, find a standout amongst the most delightful waterfall in Indochina - Thac Ban Gioc and visit the Pac Bo cavern where Ho Chi Minh shaped Viet Minh in 1940s. Travel Vietnam outline this excursion for the individuals who adores nature, society and disclosure off the beaten track...

On entry to this outskirt city you will visit the nearby market. Proceed with awesome mountain streets to Cao Bang, a drive loaded with stupendous perspectives of lavish valleys, town villages and removed mountains. After arriving at Cao Bang, a residential community on the Chinese fringe, there is time to take a short walk around see the beautiful mountain tribes living here.

Use today investigating the unspoiled nature that encompasses Cao Bang as you drive along the Chinese outskirt to Ban Gioc Waterfall. Set in the midst of staggering landscape, ignoring the outskirt, Ban Gioc is one of the nation's biggest waterfalls and you'll have sufficient energy to unwind or take a swim in its emerald waters. Come back to Cao Bang late evening for an opportunity to investigate a greater amount of this curious town.

Early today withdraw for a drive north around the Chinese outskirt to see the recorded site of the cavern where President Ho Chi Minh live and work when he came back to Vietnam in right on time of 1940s. Along the way we stop and visit the intriguing neighborhood markets to blend with the slope tribes as they bargain their products. You'll come back to Cao Bang midday and after lunch and drive to Ba Be National Park toward the evening. On landing, youwill get together and get to be familiarize with the group of Tay tribe and this evening, stay at their conventional long place of the Tay town.

Related post: Vietnam travel

After breakfast, take a 3 vessel excursion with awesome perspective of Ba Be lake and encompassing mountains and. Take a short trek to the Dau Dang Waterfall before going by a few towns of the Tay and Zao minority individuals, appreciating an outing lunch along the way.